Mljet: The Green Refuge

Mljet (pronounced “Mlyet”) is often cited as the most beautiful island in the Adriatic. It is certainly the greenest. Over 70% of the island is covered in dense Aleppo pine and Holm oak forest. The western third of the island is a National Park, protecting two unique saltwater lakes.

Legend says that Odysseus was shipwrecked here and held captive by the nymph Calypso for seven years. Looking at the serene beauty of the island, one might wonder if he stayed voluntarily. In 2026, Mljet remains an oasis of calm, a stark contrast to the bustle of nearby Dubrovnik.

Why Visit Mljet in 2026?

To disconnect. Mljet is for nature lovers. There are no large resort hotels, no nightclubs, and very little traffic. In 2026, the island is a leader in eco-tourism, offering electric bikes and solar-powered boats to explore the National Park. It is pristine, quiet, and smells of pine and salt.

Best Time to Visit

June & September: Perfect weather for cycling and swimming. The lakes are warm.
July & August: Can be busy with day-trippers from Dubrovnik, but the evenings are quiet once the last ferry leaves.
May: The island is lush and green.

How to Get There

Ferry:
- Catamaran: “Nona Ana” or “Krilo” runs from Dubrovnik to Sobra and Polače (in the National Park). It takes about 1-1.5 hours.
- Car Ferry: Runs from Prapratno (on the Pelješac peninsula) to Sobra. This is the main route if you are driving.

Iconic Experiences & Sights

1. The National Park (Salt Lakes)

The park contains two lakes: Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) and Malo Jezero (Small Lake). They are connected to the sea by a narrow channel. The water is warmer than the sea and calm. You can cycle around them on shaded paths or kayak across.

2. St. Mary’s Island

In the middle of the Big Lake lies a tiny island with a 12th-century Benedictine monastery and church. It is the symbol of Mljet. You can take a solar boat there or kayak. It is a place of profound peace.

3. Odysseus Cave

Located on the south coast near Babino Polje. A collapsed cave that is filled with neon blue water. You can hike down the cliff and jump in, or swim into it from the sea. At noon, the sunlight creates a spectacular light show underwater.

4. Saplunara Beach

On the eastern tip of the island (outside the park). Unusually for Croatia, this is a sandy beach. Surrounded by pine forest, it feels wild and secluded.

5. Polače

A village built within the ruins of a massive Roman palace (hence the name). You literally drive through Roman arches to enter the town. It is a main entry point for the park and a great place for seafood lunch.

Where to Stay

Pomena: The heart of the National Park. Home to the only hotel (Hotel Odisej) and many family apartments.
Polače: Great bay views and Roman ruins.
Sobra: The main ferry port, good for a stopover.
Saplunara: For those who want sand and total isolation in the east.

Gastronomy: Eel and Wild Game

Wild Boar: The forests are full of them. Wild boar goulash with gnocchi is a local specialty.
Eel: Caught in the muddy lakes and usually grilled or stewed (brodet).
Goat Cheese in Oil: Preserved in jars with herbs.

Sustainability & Nature

Mljet is a protected biosphere.

No Cars (in parts): Cars are allowed on the main roads, but banned from the paths around the lakes.
Mongooses: You might see small furry animals darting across the road. Mongooses were introduced in 1910 to kill snakes. They succeeded (there are no venomous snakes), but they are now a quirk of the island’s ecosystem.

Safety and Tips

Supplies: There are only a few small supermarkets. If you have specific dietary needs, bring supplies from the mainland.
ATMs: There are ATMs in Pomena, Polače, and Sobra, but carry cash for small restaurants.
Tickets: You need to buy an entrance ticket for the National Park. It is valid for your whole stay (keep it!).

Digital Nomad Life

Mljet is the ultimate “deep work” destination. It is not for the nomad who needs constant networking events, but for the one who needs silence to finish a book or a coding project. Pomena and Polače have cafes with decent wifi, but the real draw is renting a small stone house in a village like Goveđari. Be aware that mobile signal can be weak in the dense forest areas. It is a place to disconnect from the noise and reconnect with focus.

Cultural Heritage

Beyond the nature, Mljet has a rich history. The island was mentioned in ancient Greek texts and was a favorite of Roman dignitaries.

Roman Palace in Polače: The ruins here are massive, dating back to the 5th century. You can see the remains of thermal baths and a basilica.
Shipwrecks: The waters around Mljet are a graveyard of ancient amphorae-laden ships, testament to its position on ancient trade routes. There is a small diving center in Pomena that organizes dives to these archaeological sites.

Mljet is a therapy session in island form. The silence of the lakes and the scent of the pine forest cleanse the mind. It is arguably the most relaxing place in the Mediterranean.