Flores: The Flower of the East

Named “Cabo das Flores” (Cape of Flowers) by Portuguese sailors in the 16th century, Flores is a long, snake-shaped island that forms the spine of the Lesser Sunda Islands. While most tourists only fly into the western tip (Labuan Bajo) to see Komodo Dragons, the rest of the 700km-long island is an untamed wonderland of active volcanoes, tribal cultures, and Catholic missionaries.

In 2026, the “Trans-Flores Highway” road trip is becoming legendary. Winding through the mountains, it takes you from the dragon-filled west to the volcanic east, passing through villages that have changed little in centuries.

Why Visit Flores in 2026?

It is the next Bali, but 50 years ago. In 2026, the infrastructure has improved enough to make the overland journey comfortable, but the culture remains fiercely authentic. It is one of the few places in Indonesia that is predominantly Catholic, resulting in a unique blend of church spires and animist totem poles.

Best Time to Visit

Dry Season (May - September): Essential for the road trip. The winding mountain roads can be dangerous in the rain.
Shoulder (April & October): Green and beautiful.

How to Get There

Fly:
- In: Labuan Bajo (LBJ) in the west (from Bali/Jakarta).
- Out: Maumere (MOF) or Ende (ENE) in the east.
- Strategy: Fly into LBJ, drive across the island, fly out of Maumere.
Boat: The multi-day boat trip from Lombok to Flores is a backpacker rite of passage.

Iconic Experiences & Sights

1. Kelimutu National Park

The crown jewel. Three volcanic crater lakes that change color unpredictably. They can be turquoise, chocolate brown, or blood red. Locals believe they are the resting places of souls (young, old, and evil). Sunrise here is spiritual.

2. Wae Rebo Village

Accessible only by a 3-4 hour hike into the mountains. This isolated village features “Mbaru Niang”—massive, cone-shaped traditional houses. You sleep in the huts with the community. It is a UNESCO heritage site.

3. Spiderweb Rice Fields (Cancar)

Near Ruteng, the rice fields are laid out in the shape of a giant spiderweb (Lingko). This unique pattern is used to divide land equitably among families radiating from a central pole.

4. Bajawa and Ngada Villages

The region around Bajawa is home to the Ngada people. Villages like Bena and Luba feature megalithic stone formations, ancestral shrines (ngadhu and bhaga), and houses adorned with buffalo horns. It feels prehistoric.

5. 17 Islands Marine Park (Riung)

In the north. An untouched archipelago. You can hire a boat to island-hop, snorkel, and see thousands of flying foxes leaving the mangroves at dusk.

Where to Stay

Labuan Bajo: Luxury hotels and hostels.
Bajawa: Simple guesthouses (homestays) run by friendly locals. Cool mountain air.
Moni: The base for Kelimutu. Basic eco-lodges.

Gastronomy: Coffee and Moke

Flores Coffee: The volcanic soil produces some of Indonesia’s best Arabica beans. Bajawa coffee is famous.
Moke: A traditional palm spirit. It can be white (pure) or black (herbal). It is part of every ceremony.
Ikan Kuah Asam: Sour fish soup.

Sustainability & Culture

Ikat Weaving: Flores is famous for its intricate Ikat textiles. Each region has its own patterns. Buying direct from the weavers in villages like Watublapi supports the women.
Respect: When visiting traditional villages, dress modestly and ask permission. A donation is customary.

Safety and Tips

The Road: The Trans-Flores Highway is nicknamed the “Snake.” If you get carsick, bring medication. It is endless curves.
Malaria: Malaria exists in rural Flores. Take precautions (nets, repellent, prophylaxis).
Guides: Hiring a local driver/guide is highly recommended. They know the language (there are many dialects) and the roads.

Digital Nomad Life

Labuan Bajo is the only viable base for digital nomads in Flores. Here, you will find 4G/5G, cafes with wifi (like Carpenter Cafe), and a growing expat community. However, once you leave Labuan Bajo for the overland trip to the east, be prepared to be offline. The mountain villages often have weak or no signal. This dichotomy makes Flores a “work hard in Bajo, play hard in the mountains” destination.

Family Travel

Traveling Flores with kids is an adventure. It is best suited for older children (teens) who can handle the long car journeys and hikes.

Boat Trips: Kids love sleeping on the boat in Komodo National Park and seeing the dragons.
Snorkeling: The waters are warm and full of “Nemo” fish.
Culture: Seeing the traditional houses and megaliths is a great real-world history lesson.

Flores is an adventure. It is not a place for a lazy beach holiday (except in Labuan Bajo). It is a place to be awed by the power of the earth and the resilience of its people.